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The crowd that shows up at the original Nathan's on Coney Island every July 4th knows exactly what it's witnessing. The most sincere American ritual of the summer.
Every July 4th, the most American thing in America happens on the Coney Island boardwalk. Most people know about it. Almost no one has actually been there for it. The experience is unlike any other sporting event. The crowd arrives early, staking out spots along Surf Avenue hours before the noon contest begins. There are two divisions — men's and women's — each producing legendary performances that get talked about for years. The current men's record sits at 76 hot dogs and buns in ten minutes. The women's record is 48.5. These are not numbers that make sense until you're standing there watching them happen in real time. Worth it? …
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