There is a moment near midnight when a few thousand people who have been eating and dancing for hours go completely quiet, because the cry is about to be given again.
The grito that launched the revolution in 1810 gets reenacted on the oldest street in Los Angeles, in front of buildings that stood here before the American flag did. Nobody planned that as symbolism; it is simply where the community has always gone. Mariachi starts in the early evening. Regional dance, food, and a plaza filling with families who have been coming for three generations and know exactly where they stand every year.
This is not a cultural performance staged for visitors. It is a neighborhood using its own street to mark the date that matters, the way it has always marked it. Free, and the nearby structures fill early.
Go with your mother. Stand where she tells you to stand.
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