Grand Avenue with no cars on it smells like kettle corn and ocean at the same time. Twice a year Carlsbad Village shuts the streets and hands them over to what gets called the largest single-day street fair in the country, and the autumn edition is the one locals use to ease themselves into the holidays. Hundreds of vendors line Grand and the blocks around it: handmade goods, art, jewelry, plants, street food coming at you from every direction, a beer and wine garden, live music drifting between the booths with nobody quite in charge of it. It is a walk-all-day event, equal parts shopping and eating and unapologetic people-watching, two blocks off the sand with the breeze running straight through it. Strollers, dogs, and grandparents all fit. Come early, because the village fills fast, and plan on wandering with no particular route. Bring a tote bag and the person you most like walking with in no hurry.