What it was like
Somewhere between a sports bar and a gallery opening, there is a courtyard in Westwood where strangers in mismatched jerseys watch the biggest tournament on earth for free while surrounded by contemporary art. The Hammer Museum World Cup Watch Parties are the kind of event that only Los Angeles produces -- the collision of cultures that should not work together but absolutely does.
The Hammer is screening 16 men's World Cup matches on big screens in their indoor-outdoor courtyard, from the group stage through the final on July 19. Doors and the bar open one hour before kickoff. Between matches, the exhibitions are free and open -- so you can argue about VAR decisions while standing in front of a Mark Bradford painting, which is objectively the best way to process a controversial offside call.
This is free. Genuinely free -- no ticket, no RSVP required, no catch. Seating is first-come-first-served, which means the fans who care most get the best spots. Outside food and non-alcoholic beverages are welcome. The Hammer's restaurant is open for those who want something more substantial. Self-parking is available under the museum at $9 for the first three hours with validation.
The Hammer Museum is at 10899 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90024. The World Cup Final screens July 19 -- the last and loudest of the series.