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The San Gabriel Valley is the best Chinese food in North America and it is not a close race. Not one restaurant, not one street — twenty miles of it, regional and specific, Sichuan next to Taiwanese next to Shanghainese next to a Hong Kong cafe that has been full since 1987. Chefs fly in to eat here. The 626 does not market itself and has never needed to; the parking lot at 9pm is the review. Above it all the mountains start immediately, so you can eat at noon and be on a ridge by three. Come hungry, come with more people than you need, order past what you can finish.
Structured around the table, because that's how the 626 is structured. A local's arc from morning tea to the late plate, with the address for each stop.
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